Day 4A:  The Bear Woman

In the tale, a tiger and a bear (Ungnyeo) lived together in a cave and prayed to the divine king Hwanung to be made human. Hwanung heard their prayers and gave them 20 cloves of garlic, a bundle of mugwort and ordered them to stay out of the sunlight and eat only this food for 100 days. Due to hunger, the tiger left the cave after roughly 20 days, but the bear remained inside. After 21 days, she was transformed into a woman.

Ungnyeo was grateful and made offerings to Hwanung. Her lack of a husband drove her to depression, and she began to pray beneath a sacred betula tree (신단수 / 神檀樹) to be blessed with a child. Hwanung heard her prayers and was deeply moved. He took Ungnyeo as his wife and soon after, she gave birth to a son, Dangun, who would go on to found the nation of Korea.

This was our last full day. My body halfway recognized the time zone I was in, so that morning I was up with vigor.

The schedule was a big one for me. We had students in the morning who were on their way to being organizers (woooooow one of my favorite groups of people!) In the afternoon? Conversations with trade unionists! I spent some time the night before going through my notes and thinking about the questions I was going to ask in the afternoon. I was so excited to see what was to come, though a little sad that my days in Korea were coming to an end.
We gathered as usual and moved as usual to our space in the Franciscan building. Inside we were greeted by at least 40 students, all with curious looks on their faces. Now, because our organizers were incredible, we actually had a list of submitted questions from them. Check it out:

2. When and how were you involved in peace movement? You all have very interesting careers. 

3. What we know about peace movements in the U.S. is mostly about anti-Vietnam war in 1960s. So can you introduce the U.S. peace movement in recent times to us?

4. What is the main challenges for the US peace movement? In South Korea, it is the existence of North Korea itself. Especially the North Korea’s serial threats. It makes South Koreans accept the military build-ups and aggressive strategies in the Korean peninsula.

5. What’s the effect of Donald Trump’s election on the U.S. peace movement? What’s the main change made by the advent of the Trump administraiton?

6. Many people in Korea have much expectations on the new president, Moon Jae-in, hoping that he will make changes. This makes people believe in his polices rather than social movements, so it weakens the power of social movement now. We think that this situation might be similar with that of Obama in the U.S. How was it like making social/peace movements when Obama was in the White House?  

7. We are against the THAAD because we think it increases the possibility of nuclear war. Please tell us about the nuclear disarmament movement in the US and its results to us. 

8. “Pivot to Asia” strategy of the U.S. endangers the lives of people of East Asia. But most americans do not consider this as their businesses. How about the peace movement in the U.S? What do you think about the crisis of East Asia?

9. There are hundreds of millions of young people suffering from economical crises and unemployment around the world (also in the US) and the chances of war threatens their lives directly. Are there young people’s movements against social problems like these in the US? Please explain about them.

10. Reece, you are working to expand understanding and believe in the importance of peace in the labor movement. Why are you trying to expand anti-war peace work within the labor movement? What are the challenges and the successes?

We split them up and engaged them individually, though occasionally our answers overlapped. When it came to my turn, I dipped a little into my own story and told it on a kind of merged timeline. I have always found it interesting how my time as an organizer matches up with my current organization’s history, as I entered Union Summer in 2003 around the same time as USLAW came into being.  

After the story, I talked about how the anti-war movement has stagnated for many of the same reasons that USLAW struggled in recent years. Labor and the anti-war movement have not moved with the new currents and were unresponsive to calls for racial and climate justice.  Further, systems that had been built to further democracy within unions had created ossified institutions that couldn’t hold the weight of what was being built.  The anti-war movement had ossified as well, but that stagnation had figuratively frozen leadership in place.  The result was a movement that couldn’t even see past an internal deficit, let alone organizing universe, that was becoming dramatically different in the 21st Century.  My hiring then, imperfect and still unproven, would represent a change in the way USLAW saw the landscape in front of them. 

I also went into the same talking points I had touched on previously about workers who make weapons of war.  For more about that, you can look at previous days, but it was interesting how the students were so curious about we accomplished the task of talking to people that were so far outside of their personal experience.

We ended with a few fun pictures and some high fives.  I was practically vibrating with excitement as our next meeting was with KCTU leadership!  We took one last picture and headed out to the Union hall, minus Jill Stein as she had a meeting with the Korean Green Party.

Day 3B

When I last left off, I was being approached by two men from the Foreign Intelligence Agency.

The two men that approached me actually looked pretty typical.  In fact, looking back at their approach, they were fairly nerdy looking guys.  The only thing that gave away their affiliation and intentions was their clothing.  They were dressed for the heat, in banana-colored shirts and khaki pants, but they were entirely too clean and together.  In their approach they were clear in their identification and had actually addressed me by name, but I couldn’t quite hear them because right as they started talking a gigantic choir began singing songs of peace behind me.  I had to stifle laughter as their mission was interrupted by angelic voices, particularly the voices of children.

They asked me two questions that told me a great deal about why they were following us, the first being a general query about where I was from in the United States.  It was said with gentle curiosity, so I think they were genuine.  The second was literally “Are you bringing more people with you?” and I was a little shocked and confused.  Did they think I was literally flying more people in that same day?  Were they referring to more Black people?  More trade unionists?  When they asked, one of them took out a notebook, so I think they wanted specifics.  By that point, I was worried I was misunderstanding them so I asked one of our translators to come by and help me.

Once they arrived and saw who I was speaking to, it was clear to me that I was truly having a conversation with intelligence agents.  My translator buddy was hostile toward them and a little unhappy that we were talking.  She wasn’t upset with me necessarily, just unhappy with the situation as they apparently had also been talking to Jill Stein with similar questions.  After some excuses, I was away from them and on to the next task.

We had a rally to speak at and, while there is photographic evidence it happened pretty quickly.  All I remember is getting up there, nearly falling off the stage stairs because the heat was getting to me, and saying a few words.  Afterwards, I basically sat in the Buddhist temple until it was time to leave.  Though this meant skipping the march, I felt I made the right call.  My body was exhausted and I needed to rest my extremities as they had seriously swollen.

From there we said goodbye to our hosts at the retreat center and made our way to the van.  It would be a long drive to our next hotel and we were all very tired.  We would stop along the way for dinner with some union members, beginning 24 hours of labor interactions.

Wol-San, in addition to being our amazing guide and translator, works for the largest union in the KCTU.  That union, KPTU (check the Resource page for more information,) represents an interesting cross-section of public sector employees and transportation workers (think if AFSCME, IBT and SEIU merged.). Members of her union graciously agreed to eat with us. The conversation we were a part of shined more light on what life has been like for union members pre- and post-uprising.  It was also good to be able to have real union members in front of my delegation comrades who don’t normally have this kind of interaction with my folks.  

At one point, during a discussion of whether things were improving with the Moon administration, there was disagreement between two union steward equivalents.  One, a man who worked in transportation, felt that Moon needed more time to fully realize his potential in office and thought once he had solidified enough political support he would be more progressive but still thought his election was the end of the uprising.  The woman sitting across from him, a lead steward who worked in education, disagreed and issued her disappointment in the new administration.  She felt the fight was far from over and that there was so much more to be done.  I had to smile at the conversation, reminding myself of the arguments in breakrooms I witnessed during the Obama administration.

Same as it ever was.

Day 4 will be a three-parter and much heavier in detail than usual, so I let this one be a little shorter with more pictures.

 Day 3A: Rooster Kings

The myth starts with the creation of the world, when the sky and the earth were one. As there were no sky nor earth, as a result, there was only an empty void. However, one day, a gap formed in the void. All that was lighter than the gap headed upwards and formed the sky. All that was heavier than the gap fell down to become the earth. From the sky fell a clear blue drop of dew, and from the earth rose a dark black drop of dew. As these two drops mixed, all that existed, except the sun, moon, and the stars, came to be. From these two drops came humans and even the gods.

The leader of the gods, Cheonjiwang, awoke to the cry of the three roosters; the Rooster Emperor of the Sky (Korean: 천황닭), the Rooster Emperor of the Earth (Korean: 지황닭), and the Rooster Emperor of Humans (Korean: 인황닭). According to some scholars, the cry of the roosters signify time.[4]) Cheonjiwang knew that the three roosters were crowing because there was no sun. To appease the roosters, Cheonjiwang crafted two suns and two moons, and made the two suns rise and fall every day and the two moons rise and fall every night.

Day 3 really started at the end of Day 2.  But I’ll explain.

We had a late night meeting with Won Buddhists that I sadly can’t really remember well because I was exhausted, but I do recall video being taken.  I’ll add it here when I get a copy of it.  After that, we headed to the Buddhist retreat center where we were sleeping for the night.

It’s worth mentioning that prior to maybe 50 years ago, what I think of as a traditional bed was not that popular in Korea.  It was common, and in many places is still common, to sleep on the floor with a blanket and a pillow essentially.  The concept, known as ondol sleeping, was an option made available to us at the Won Buddhist Retreat Center.  Most folks were worried about me sleeping this way because of my size and circulation issues.  The heat was oppressive and it definitely had an effect on me.

But there was no way in Hell I was going to miss out on sleeping in a traditional space.  So I did.

On the floor that night, fan blowing on me as I lay drinking water and enjoying the peace of the natural setting, I made some decisions that are important for context later on:

–  It had become clear that if I was going to be a full participant, I needed to be ready to make commitments.  I didn’t fly 15 hours, destroying my sleep cycle, to smile and shake hands.  I wanted to get shit done.

–  I have circulation problems and that’s just a truth in my life.  I need to make sure I don’t hurt myself, but those problems can’t ever take me out of the room.  No matter the pain, I’m staying in the room.

I went to sleep knowing that the next day would be tough.

We woke up the next day to an awesome breakfast from our hosts and some great conversation.  The ride to Seongju was short and upon arrival at the temple where the days’ events took place, we were introduced to the space where we would meet with farmers from the village.  The building was one of few areas with air conditioning, so there were many people moving in and out.  The floor was littered with shoes of folks anxious to meet with us.  We added our shoes to the pile and, after some settling in, we gathered in a large circle together.

The big circle, the size of pretty much the entire room, was on one side made up of villagers and our delegation.  The other side was 75 percent press, the rest our interpreters and a few other folks who were wandering in and out.  As the cameras took photos of us sitting, the villagers looking ready and most of us looking uncomfortable sitting on the floor, I could feel my lower body slowly growing numb.  We went around doing introductions and I could feel that my extremities were getting cold despite the day’s heat.  It got bad enough that I was having a hard time even listening to people talk about their role in the struggle against THAAD in Seongju.  I gestured to Wol-San that I needed to stand up and move, but my lower body was asleep.  I asked Will for some help in getting up and he generously helped me to my feet, even as my right leg completely locked up and blazed with pins and needles.  Will said aloud that maybe we should take a break and go outside and, even though I was in pain I knew what I had to do.

“No, I’ll be fine.”


“Yeah, I don’t care what happens.  I’m not leaving the room.”

I limped over to the doorframe and decided to remain standing for the rest of the meeting.  Medea took the place I was sitting, ensuring the pictures would still look good and there wouldn’t be an empty space.  The circle round continued, and we entered the meat of the conversation fairly quickly.

The villagers and others explained many reasons why the THAAD missile system was such a horrible thing.  In their explanations you could hear the root of various presentations and press statements made by many in the delegation.  Everything from potential health risks to the placement of the system in a site of religious significance came into play.  The system was incredibly disruptive in their lives and they, in general, just wanted the damnded thing gone.  We were mostly going through the motions slowly when someone asked, pointedly, what steps we planned on taking when we returned.  The room was quiet for a second, so I volunteered to talk first.

I first informed people about who I was talking to when I returned home.  I let them know that the American labor movement is taking a great deal of interest in what I was doing and when I wrote these blog posts at night, I received lots of interested communication.  I told them that the first thing that was going to happen was an extended amount of time spent communicating this message on a kind of tour.  I’d spend this time telling people what the villagers told me, with the idea that we would figure out a way to do something about it.  The villagers applauded furiously and, while I was happy that they were happy, I needed them to know that I wasn’t done.

If I was going to tour the country talking about them and their experiences, there also needs to be more visits from other trade unionists we are in relationship with.  Because of the work that our organization has been doing around just transition, it only makes sense that as we find workers that are willing to confront militarism with us that we should include them on these tours at some point in the future.  I did my best then to implore them to be open to the people I bring back.  Most military-industrial complex workers aren’t the soulless and greedy people they are said to be.  Most of them, when they learn of the devastation their product causes, are deeply affected.  If they were willing to allow them in and develop a relationship, there was no telling how far we could go.

That meeting ended with the usual pictures and handshakes and we all exited into the hot air outside.  At this point we had additional press interviews and the chance to connect with villagers one on one, so we all split up with either a translator or on our own.  I found a quiet spot to sit with a bottle of water and used the space to connect with people.  After a few minutes, I was joined by two men with beige khaki pants and white shirts.

“Hi.  Are you Reece?”


“Hello.  I’m Mr. X and this is Mr. Y.  We’re Foreign Intelligence agents.”

Uh oh.

Glad to be back, though I wish circumstances were better all around.  More later.

Day 2B

Sorry I’m late… but I’m sure you can guess why that is.  The news has been a little cryptic the last 36 hours and we’re all waiting… I got tired of waiting so I started writing again.  I figure it’s the least I can do.

After the press conference, we took a minute and assessed the schedule between cleansing breaths.  There would be no government meeting, so we might actually have free time in between our next meeting and the long ride to Seongju!  We packed up and moved along, a little late but doing well on time.

Our 11:00 was with the National Conference of People in Sovereignty (NCPS.)  We arrived to a variety of men that appeared to be from all different professions.  Business cards were presented and we took our places around the table.

I didn’t talk much during this meeting.  I felt the need to take some notes as I wasn’t as familiar with this organization.  I didn’t remember them from our packet of readings and had to go back into my file folder to look at their bio.  In a nutshell, they are described as an organization looking to carry on the spirit of the candlelight uprising.  If you want a little more info, check out the Resource List.

Going around the table, most of the men were older, having been involved in the democratization fight since the 1960s and 1970s.  For our purposes, we’ll concentrate on two men.

One of them was Dr. Kim, wearing a shirt with large parrots on it.  Originally a student, he was accused of being a spy while working and studying in Eastern Germany.  He was thrown in prison for 12 years, nearly receiving the death penalty.  Amnesty International made something of a famous case out of him.  He now studies international issues on the Korean Peninsula.

Dr. Lee sat two down from Dr. Kim.  According to him, he held many jobs in many lives, though he was most excited to tell me about designing trains.

What followed, once we were settled, was a fascinating conversation about reunification in Korea.

The discussion varied but essentially where folks came down was that unification and peace are equally important and can’t happen without each other.  More folks wanted peace first over unification but recognized that when South Korean (SK) folk talk about reunification, they’re talking about absorbing North Korea (NK) completely.  Many NK folk think a process of peaceful coexistence happens with unification, so there’s clearly a wrinkle there that someone needs to work out.  The discussion was animated, particularly between Dr. Kim and Dr. Lee.  It was amiable and the differences were minor.  But the major points were in alignment with what we’d previously heard:  the US needs to calm things down and appears to be the aggressor but only the US can change that.  Right now no one is talking so it is clear who needs to start the conversation around nuclear weapons.

One interesting point in the discussion was the mention of industrial zones.  There had been some work on that in the past in Rason and Kaesong that allowed for trade relationships between China, Russia, SK, and NK.  I’d heard of these places before and we have them in the United States in a variety of places.  Special Economic Zones can be called Free Trade Zones, Export Processing Zones… they have plenty of names.  Organized labor tends to dislike them since labor law tends to get suspended there, creating a vacuum of shitty conditions for workers, and the companies often get huge tax breaks in the name of foreign investment and the pile of jobs it “creates.”

Our hosts from NCPS mentioned that this could be a possible avenue to build a path to peace, possibly welcoming additional foreign investors like Russia or China to participate in the same space as the United States.  The translator sitting next to me was excited, mentioning that they’d never heard this before from such a left-wing member of the National People’s Action.

Somewhere in there we had lunch together and, after some serious Korean food, we took a few photos together and said our goodbyes.  We took a few minutes to walk around for a bit in the tourist section.  

From there we took the long drive to Seongju.  It would be hours, and many of us slept.  I stayed awake, enjoying the peaceful scenery as we left the big city.

Day 2A: Heavenly People

More myth.

At the beginning the world did not exist. A deity named Yul-ryeo 율려(律呂) and a goddess named Mago 마고(麻姑) appeared . Yul-ryeo then died. Mago in turn gave birth to two goddesses: Gung-hee 궁희(穹姬) and So-hee 소희(巢姬). They in turn each gave birth to two Men of Heaven 천인(天人) and two Women of Heaven 천녀(天女).  After the appearance of the Heavenly People, Yul-ryeo 율려 is revived and through her rebirth heaven, earth, and the oceans were created, along with Chi (soul) 기(氣), fire 불(火), water 물(水), and earth 흙(土). These four elements in turn mixed and became herbs and plants, birds and animals.

Mago 마고(麻姑) decides to stay with Yul-ryeo, whose body had now become the world, and the Heavenly People ruled all living things from their heavenly fortress named Magoseong 마고성(麻姑城) in honor of the goddess.

Day 2 was what I often fear most: a press event.  It hits all of my buttons.  Images and sound bites rarely capture the complexity of anything, let alone what I’m a part of organizationally.  

The day started well, however, because I finally had breakfast!  I’ll spare you the details but the protein did quite well by me and I felt a surge of energy as we left the hotel and walked a short distance to the Franciscan Education Center that was only a few doors down from the KCTU office building.  

Inside, we were guided to a room similar to a high school classroom.  Tables and chairs were set up in front for us delegates and we quickly moved to our places.  As we settled, more press came in and I started to get flustered.  Typically, I am accustomed to young press from lefty news organizations or older independent guys who run their own shop.  I don’t get into mainstream press at all, and that’s been just fine.  Here we were joined by outlets from all over the globe, including AP and the large news outlets in South Korea.  Cameras constantly snapping, flashes loud and close to my face… it was a lot to deal with and for a moment I had a rare look into the lives of my delegation partners with some fame/infamy.  I wondered how difficult it must be to deal with this kind of uncontrolled attention.

We were asked to prepare statements ahead of time to be translated, including a brief two-sentence blurb.  I submitted:

Weapons of war aren’t what American workers need to produce in a world being shaped by climate change. THAAD represents a reinvestment in a declining industry that union workers can no longer afford.

The first response I got back from the team was actually the first question I was asked by foreign press as well as my delegation comrades.  People were confused by the idea that workers cared about anything but money, additionally asking:

Why do you call the weapons industry a declining industry?

While the question was translated I hammered out some bullets quickly so I wouldn’t stumble.  Cameras trained on my face quickly as I took on the question directly while simultaneously rejecting the premise.  

The reality is that we support weapons manufacturing in a way that we wouldn’t subsidize anything else.  When business is good we rationalize bigger purchases even when we don’t need them and when business isn’t as good we give them away or sell them to governments we claim to despise.  Plans for spending are made years before any money is appropriated in many cases.  This creates a cycle where we spend the money because we claim we have no choice, having already paid for an item that may have tripled in cost to make simply because we said we would.  To add insult to injury, what we have produced often has limited to zero practical use outside of warfare so unless we find a way to use it for that singular purpose, it’s likely that it will sit waiting for a target.  In no other situation would you call an industry with an undesirable product that needs nearly 100 percent subsidy to survive thriving, but that’s exactly what we do with the military-industrial complex.

I ended by saying that climate change is being seen more and more by workers in these industries as the real threat we need to face.  Profit can’t begin to counterbalance the need for solutions in a world desperate for climate justice.  Workers, when given an actual choice, usually decide a livable Earth is a better investment.

When our press conference was concluded, I was told many times that not only was what I was saying provocative but that they’d never thought about the question that way.  They’d never thought that American workers would ever value anything but profit.  I was quick to remind them that if we continue to define profit and success as things solely quantifiable in dollars, we will miss out on new allies in unfamiliar places.

I’m back to writing and I’ll continue to post every day.  Check the Resource Page as I’ll be adding new things as well as a new pinned post full of pictures from the trip.

Back in One Week

Hi.  I returned home on Saturday after my whirlwind trip through Korea.  Even as we were in the air, a lot was happening and continues to happen.

I’ve got a lot to say but I’m seeing a lot of travel fatigue in my writing.  Rather than put out half-baked content, I’m going to rest and allow myself some space to full process the days.  There is a LOT to put down and I don’t want to shortchange you or myself.  

I will return to this space in one week with more words about my experiences.  Until then, I’m going to get some sleep and let my body readjust to this time zone.

Later for the latest.